Tuesdays with Gertie: Square Shoulder Adjustment
This year I’m sewing along with Gertie from Gertie’s New Blog for Better Sewing. A bunch of other talented seamsters and I have joined up through the Craftsy online community to make her Starlet Suit. Here’s a reflection on my efforts to sew well.
Last week I discussed jacket ease and possibly moving to the next size up in Vogue V8333, which would supposedly give me 3-4″ of ease. The resulting muslin had a decent amount of ease but a very low armscye (I’m in serious science overload these days, so my instincts were to write “data not shown” here). Instead of starting over with the larger muslin, I was encouraged by all of your nice comments last week to go back to my original V8333 muslin since it really did fit well and since I’d already identified the major adjustment it needed: a square shoulder adjustment to allow for shoulder pads. I restitched the shoulder seam, adding 1/2″ at the sleeve seam and tapering to nothing at the neck. Then I raised the armscye the same amount.
The resulting muslin felt like it had just the right amount of ease in just the right places. The armscye was still a little lower than a favorite ready-to-wear jacket that I own, but while attempts to raise it (even more than what was required for the shoulder adjustment) were mildly successful, what little I gained did not feel worth the effort that needed to go into getting the sleeve curve perfect through all of those pattern pieces.
I think I’m ready to cut into the fashion fabric, folks. But, I’m leaning towards only using 1/4″ shoulder pads (and a 1/4″ square shoulder adjustment) in the actual jacket so that I keep the pattern closer to its original design while still getting the benefit of shoulder pads. Thoughts and opinions are very welcome.
I’m very happy to have gotten this far! Finally!