Wednesdays with Lynda: Upper Body
The next few months I’m sewing along with Lynda Maynard. A bunch of other talented seamsters and I have joined up through the Craftsy online community to learn how to sew the perfect fit. Here’s a reflection on my efforts to sew well.
This week’s lesson was all about, and I quote, “breast issues”. Okay, it’s really about all of the upper body, but I loved that Lynda began the class saying it like it is – the most troublesome area of the upper body for most women to fit is the bust. She begins the class fitting a woman who’s bust darts are too high. A quick snip above the bust and a bit of extra fabric is all she needs to fix the problem. There’s no manipulating of the actual darts at all! The fitting of the second model was absolutely phenomenal (in my opinion, of course). She takes a garment that’s pulling every which way and won’t even close in the back and turns it into the most flattering top. It’s unbelievable. For this particular woman, it seems to be all about adding fabric in just the right places to get the grain lines and darts in their proper positions. Once they’re there, it looks like the pattern was meant just for this model! Really, it’s unbelievable. Lynda describes what she’s doing as a full-bust adjustment, which is something that I know many of you do often but that I’ve never done before, so it could be that I’m wowed at something fairly commonplace. But, seriously, wow. It just seems like she adds fabric in all the right places and in all the right ways.
When we were fitting Jennifer of My Sewing Suite and Victoria last week, a lot of this lesson came in handy. But, one thing I noted when I watched the lesson again before writing this post was that Lynda cuts all the way through the garment, from seam to seam, whenever she’s making an alteration. There were many times during our fitting session where we only cut a few inches into the garment to release some tension. It almost seemed like we were cutting in ways that suggested we just needed to pull some fabric out of the darts, which made sense at the time. Yet, Lynda never touches the darts. I hope we did the right thing! At least it sounds like Victoria is well on her way to a great fitting pattern (after four more muslins!), and I think Jennifer will be able to make our August fitting session, so hopefully we can give hers another check with fresh eyes!
I forgot to note last time that at the end of each fitting lesson, Lynda walks through how to convert the changes made to the muslin onto the paper pattern. You might wonder why she just doesn’t use the fitted muslin as her new pattern. Well, if you saw how cut up her muslins are after she’s done fitting, you’d likely not want them anywhere near your expensive fashion fabric! Also, a huge benefit of this extra step is that you should be able to learn what pattern alterations you can do right away before beginning to work with any new-to-you Vogue pattern.
Next week we’re moving on to the skirt portion of the pattern. See you then!
As a reminder, I received this class for free from Craftsy in return for an honest review. If you’re interested in taking this class yourself, follow this link for 40% off Lynda Maynard’s Sew the Perfect Fit.